Hampi - A Magnificent Era

Enchanting Hampi!!

There is a perfect tagline for this place .. No one can visit just once!! 

Yes, yes, now don't you smirk, I just borrowed it from them, the chips company!

Ever since I was a child, Ruins, History, Stories, old structures, and the heavy word 'Archaeology' fascinated me. For a very long time I wanted to be an Archaeologist, I still want to be one, In my mind I am already one! But in reality I am doing what I love!

Let's start with a little history, you view a place with more respect and awe when know about the past. 

Let me throw in some philosophy here, "The Scars on the body may look ugly, but once you know the story behind them, the Scar no longer are Scars, they become experience, they become witness to the struggle towards life."

The Group of Monuments of Hampi were included in the UNESCO World Heritage List in Danger on 30th Nov 1999. On 10th July 2006, Hampi was removed from the "in Danger" list and included as World Hertiage List. We should applaud the efforts of UNESCO, Govt of India, State Govt of Karnataka and Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) that in matter of 7years they were able to revive Hampi and get it in the state that it is. How they did it, that will have to be a different blog in itself. 

Hampi is referred to in old scripts with names like - Pampa kshetra and Kishkindha kshetra. 

"The austere, grandiose site of Hampi was the last capital of the last great Hindu Kingdom of Vijayanagar. Its fabulously rich princes built Dravidian temples and palaces which won the admiration of travellers between the 14th and 16th centuries. Conquered by the Deccan Muslim confederacy in 1565, the city was pillaged (Looted/Raided) over a period of six months before being abandoned." - as mentioned on the UNESCO website. As per one of the records the Temples of Hampi were burnt and it is said that for 6 months Hampi burnt and burnt. Yet it has stood the test of time and is here for us a window to witness a glimpse of an era that was.

How do we get to Hampi:

Fortunately, Hampi is well connected, you can travel by road directly to Hampi. You can also take a flight to the most nearest airport, Jindal Vijayanagar Airport. It's a small and cute airports! Hampi is a drive around 1hr 30mins from this airport, around about 35 kms. We, me and my husband have travelled to Hampi both by road and flight and both modes are very convenient. Rest all the questions of HOW to get there, please don't ask me directions, I am bad at them. Really.. like really!

Now what did I feel about the place:

Well, there are hundreds and hundreds of monuments, Stupa's, Temples, Bazaar's, Rock structures etc etc. What to expect in Hampi is the Architectural artistry, the grand Temples of 'once upon a time'. nature and the co-existence of the manmade structures with the magnanimous boulders.

I fell in love with it. Why, for the sheer beauty of these structures and the thought that people back then in the 9th century and 1300's where capable of building some thing so magnificent. I am a patient traveller, I don't mind spending loads of time at one place and seeing the place and feeling it and taking it in as much as possible. And that is what this ancient city, which was once named to be the most prosperous, does to you. While you take a walk through the ruins, you wonder, is this really our history, our art. We are no land of snake charmers or third world country, we were the leaders of out time. 

Every ruin that I visited made my head spin and excited... oh!! see this is Vijayanagar style, oh!! see this is Indo-Islamic style, oh! see this is Hoysala..hmm..chola style, oh!! see this.. I have seen this some where style (I don't know much about it). These 'once' temples, 'now' ruins throw so much on you to take. 

What is surprising is the Water Infrastructure of that era. They were smart! Hampi had a very systematic water infrastructure which was divided and built based on the needs of public utility, Travellers use, domestic use, rituals and irrigation. 

The best thing to enjoy in Hampi is the Sunset!! Yes, I am partial towards sunset in Hampi! We travelled to Anegundi hill and just settled ourselves, once we got used to of the Monkeys there. It was one of my best sunsets (There are many best ones). You just sit there at the highest point, getting a view of the whole Hampi and the sunsetting in there, wow! beautiful. (And I didnot click even one picture :))

Another beautiful sunset was in Vittal Temple, our ancient people where smart guys, cant deny that, the sunset happens there very strategically, giving the temple a golden color of its own. Just amazing. 

For me Hampi will be a place I can visit and re visit and re visit and re visit again and again. 

Let me quickly give you a list to tick off, the places you should not miss when you visit Hampi:

Virupaksha Temple and Market Complex: This is one oldest of all the temples there, this is dated back to 11th century. Also, this is one of the very few temples which are still operational. And is also the the house of the elephant: Laxmi. 

Vittala Temple: famously, called as the Chariot temple and is once of the most famous place of Hampi. 

Hemakunta Group of temples: These are small ruins of various temples and Stupa's. It is located at a higher poin and will give you a beautiful early morning view. 

Matunga Hill: A small trek to reach the top of this hill to witness a sunrise. The view is really worth all the climb and this hill looks down upon one of the most magnificent temple complex, Achyutaraya Temple (This is the one that give me a feeling of some Lara croft movie or something that could be seen in the National Treasure or Davinci Code or any other similar mysterious movie. 

Then there is the Elephant Stables, The Monolith Yoga-Narsimha, The huge Shiva-Lingam, Nandi again a monolith etc etc. These were the only structures which i was able to visit, you know by now, I am a slow traveller... I spend a lot of time at one place and thankfully I have my travel partner, my husband, also the same kind, easy peasy. 

What about Accommodation and Food there?

Well for stay you will find that the main city Hampi is a city of Home stays. There are a couple of resorts and hotel too near the Kamlapuri area, which is just about 15-20mins drive from the main twon of Hampi. Personally, I enjoyed staying in the town in Home stays, they are not fancy but you are very close to the ruins, the Tungabhadra river, the eateries and market place. 

Travel you hire a two wheeler and zipzupzip the vacation in Hampi goes as a breeze. 

Food, there are not many option but whatever is available is really good. Must visit place is Mango Tree and try the Thali there. Gopi's Restaurant is a very good place for breakfast, with a view (and additional company, monkeys). There are couple of more places at the other part of the city, on the way to Virapapur Gadde,  Hippie Island as it was called.

Corona Effect on Hampi:

I visited Hampi in Sept 2020 and was the Corona effect there. Yes, this small town whose major source of income is tourist, has been hit. It is visible. 

In my recent visit, most of the eateries where closed. The one we found open was not kept well; generally the eateries in Hampi were small but neatly well maintained. However, this was majorly missing this time around. 

Another major development which happened is that all the structures in the Hippie Island are demolished. There was a legal fight going on between the owners of resorts/restaurants/hotels/other of this part of the town and the Govt since 2009. All these structures were found to be in violation of the Mysore Ancient and Historical Monuments and Archeological sites and Remains Act. From now on only Agricultural activities will be allowed in that part of Hampi. 

Go pack you bags and Travel to this place during its best time, Winters, which is November to March. You never know, I may be there walking around of the ruins during this time. I am not done with this place.. as the great philosopher and man of iron once say " I'll be back" - Terminator. Also, said by him, Sir, Terminator, "Hasta-la-Vista, baby". 

When you see us!! Yes, that's us in the camera....phone camera! Picture mien Picture!

PS: I am partial towards a couple of monuments in Hampi and hence, most of the pictures are from Vittala Temple :)! 

Thank you for making it till here!